A nation in a state of fermentation

While some are still busy making their cold brew coffee or drawing pretty pictures in the foam of their flat white, others have already moved on to the next big thing: fizzling sounds can be heard in cellars, and strange concoctions are bubbling away on Berlin’s balconies – Germany is fermenting like there’s no tomorrow. And doing so with great enthusiasm - and cabbage. What used to happen in granny’s earthenware pots is now all the rage in high-end restaurants. Sauerkraut, which could hardly be more German, has some new international teammates: kimchi, kombucha, kefir.

Recently, it seems like the kitchens of many shared flats boast more pickling jars than espresso cups. Carrots can be spotted floating alongside turmeric, while kimchi is ousting the usual bottle of ketchup. Be it probiotics for a healthy gut or organic karma to ease the conscience - a fermented lifestyle reflects the zeitgeist. It’s sustainable, mysterious and exudes the heady fragrance of adventure - not to mention lactic acid.

Sauerkraut workshops on TikTok

Germany has a long tradition of fermenting different foods and is happy to share its knowledge with the rest of the world: good old German sourdough and of course beer, which lifts the mood thanks to its fermented state, are among the country’s most successful exports. Nowadays, Germany supplies not only brewer’s yeast, but also expertise: from courses in fermentation offered by your local adult education centre to sauerkraut workshops on TikTok - people everywhere are mashing, salting and chopping up veg like crazy.

In a hectic world it’s reassuring to remember that some things simply need a bit of time. And salt. And a pickling jar. Germany has realised this. And if you don’t want to end up talking yet again about heat pumps or election campaign promises, just say: “My red cabbage is just beginning to ferment.” And suddenly the conversation will start flowing again.