The delights of eating in Germany

Exquisite cuisine in Germany – a few years ago this sounded as unlikely as haute couture from Castrop-Rauxel. But the current Michelin Guide makes it official: Germany is a gourmet’s paradise. An unprecedented number of stars now twinkle above restaur­ants in Germany, and 37 new ones have been awarded by the world-famous gastronomy guide. Today, Germany boasts 255 starred restaurants between Flensburg and Lake Constance. The only European country that can offer more is France. So what has happened?

Long gone are the days when Eckart Witzigmann, the founder of Germany’s first culinary miracle, had to travel to Paris to buy crème fraîche in the 1970s. Nowadays, another generation of leading star gazers is at the helm: Kevin Fehling, 35, from La Belle Epoque in Travemünde, is the youngest new talent in the club of three-star chefs, and he’s a typical representative of the new, creative generation in the kitchen. One who confidently combines delicate Norway lobster with earthy carrot puree, mandarin jelly and Asian spices. Like his colleagues, his art is solidly founded in French cuisine, but he embarks on Far Eastern flights of fancy and plays with textures and temperatures that are inspired by the molecular cuisine of Spain’s Ferran Adrià. Naturally, he is also a perfect craftsman and has travelled widely. Yes, the young talents cook without constraints, but of course they still want to be incredibly innovative, to develop their own profile and create their own image to differentiate themselves from the many, equally gifted colleagues.

It’s a fact that German cuisine has never been so interesting and diverse. If you take a trip around the country, you can start with Tim Raue’s unique Chinese inspired creations in Berlin-Kreuzberg. He performs aromatic drum-rolls and dares to entirely do without noodles, rice and potatoes. Then you can take a break at La Vie in Osnabrück and enjoy the creations of Thomas Bühner, who Feinschmecker, the German gourmet magazine, voted Chef of the Year 2012: he’s unbeatable when combining a dizzying wealth of exquisite products to form a unique new experience. A visit to Aqua in Wolfsburg is also a must. It’s where Sven Elverfeld demonstrates his expertise with his breathtaking deconstructions of traditional dishes, such as pizza, borsch and Frankfurt green sauce. And why not reserve a table with Joachim Wissler at the Vendôme in Bergisch Gladbach. He’s perhaps the most intellectual and experimental mind among German gourmet chefs. The next stop on the agenda is the quiet town of Baiersbronn.

It’s an inconspicuous place in the Black Forest, but it’s a cult site for gourmets. It’s where Harald Wohlfahrt (3), Claus-Peter Lumpp (3) and Jörg Sackmann (1) form the densest cluster of stars in Germany. The undisputed kingpin in the trio is a level-headed man with a side parting and a shy smile: Harald Wohlfahrt, definitely Germany’s best cook, has held three stars for 20 years, and his elegant French cuisine is still the ultimate yardstick for everyone. Countless young German chefs have trained with him and absorbed his perfectionism.

And why Baiersbronn in particular? Because Baden-Württemberg is Germany’s gourmet region: it’s close to France, has top-quality wines, a gentle climate, and it has a restaurant tradition that lovingly cultivates regional dishes. France alone is no longer the only model of excellent cuisine. German chefs seek inspiration from modern Basque cuisine with its experimental techniques, foams and spheres. They gaze with fascination at Scandinavia, where René Redzepi of Copenhagen is revered as an icon of a modern natural cuisine that harvests its treasures in the immediate surroundings. In Germany, new dishes suddenly emerge that are reminiscent of landscapes, woodland walks and strolls along beaches, whilst the next trend from South America is already waiting just around the corner.

Germany has developed an avant-garde, cosmopolitan cuisine which simulta­neously reflects its regional roots. Whereas it was once seen as a sign of quality when the Rungis van stopped by to deliver a wealth of delicatessen products, today’s cooks consciously look for ingredients from local producers. They prefer to cook a pike perch from the Havel rather than tuna, and they survive the winter very well without truffles. People are discovering the luxury of simplicity, and “organic growing” is a major theme. Historic vegetables, such as salsify, are becoming just as acceptable as ancient breeds of pig. And it goes without saying, that it’s not just the filet that enters the pan here, but also the “less elite” cuts such as the jowl and the belly.

“Good products are crucial in the kitchen,” says Berlin star chef Daniel Achilles. He 
envies his colleagues who can harvest products from their own gardens, such as Johannes King on the island of Sylt or 
Michael Hoffmann just outside Berlin. And on the topic of Berlin: the capital has the country’s most enticing and exciting restaurant scene with international guests and fascinating venues. Sometimes it’s hard to keep up with the latest in-places: the restaurant in the old brewery, in the former girls’ school or the one in the dimly lit rear courtyard. And it’s hardly surprising that the cooks themselves have changed. The autocratic chef with the gut feeling who once lorded it over the kitchen is a thing of the past. The young masters of the culinary arts are smart. They’re in demand as TV chefs or advertising partners, and they replenish their batteries with marathons and Ayurveda. Many have reached celebrity 
status and keep the PR agencies busy.

So, everything’s just fine in Germany? Well, not quite… There are still more people who value expensive motor oil, but scrimp when it comes to buying olive oil, and – unlike in France, for instance – rarely appreciate the transient pleasure of an extensive menu. Abroad, our German star chefs are still more or less unknown. The stars are there. They just need to shine a little more brightly to be visible beyond the national borders.